Pest Control FAQ's

If the council owns the land, the council may be responsible however if the council leases out the land or property it may be written into the tenancy agreement that the tenant is responsible. It’s always best to check your agreement first to see whether you or the council are responsible for pest control.

This very much depends on what pest you have, how large the infestation is and the size and nature of the property affected. For example, a treatment for fleas may cost more in a 4 bedroom detached house than a 1 bedroom flat because of the amount of chemical that is needed to eradicate the problem. Some pest infestations require more than one visit to resolve the problem; this is particularly relevant for rodent infestations where we would carry out an initial visit to assess the problem and put in solutions to address the matter. A follow up visit is required, normally within 2 weeks to check on activity and a final visit takes place to remove any equipment from the property once the problem has been resolved. When you call PGM & Son Pest Control, we will spend some time on the ‘phone asking questions about your pest problem and your property. We will provide you with a quote in advance of any works. Sometimes, it is necessary to carry out a survey of your premises first however we will discuss this with you and agree a way forward.

The time needed to eliminate pests varies based on the type and extent of the infestation. After an inspection, we’ll provide a clear treatment plan and timeframe to resolve the issue as efficiently as possible.

Yes, we use treatments that are designed to be safe for families and pets. Our team follows strict safety guidelines and offers eco-friendly pest control options where possible.

We specialise in controlling a wide range of pests, including rodents such as mice and rats, insects such as ants, wasps, and bed bugs, as well as birds such as pigeons. Our comprehensive services are tailored to effectively handle each type of pest infestation.

We understand the urgency of pest issues and respond promptly to all inquiries. Typically, we aim to address pest problems within 24 to 48 hours of receiving a request for service. For emergency situations, we offer same day response times to provide immediate assistance when needed.

All professional pest controllers will hold a professional qualification which is needed to purchase professional pest treatments such as chemicals and poisons. The most recognised qualification is the Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH) Level 2 Certification in Pest Control. Pest Controllers should also be registered with a trade body which gives customers assurance that they are dealing with a pest controller who meets industry standards and good practice. The two main bodes in the UK are the British Pest Control Association (BPCA) and The National Pest Technicians Association (NPTA). All professional pest controllers should carry public liability insurance and hold a waste carrier licence. Don’t be afraid to ask to see qualifications and certifications, a professional pest controller will always be happy to show these to you.

We proudly provide our pest control services to customers in Herefordshire and Worcestershire. Whether you're in a rural village or a bustling town, our award winning pest control team is dedicated to helping you tackle your pest problems promptly and effectively.

Signs of a pest infestation can vary depending on the type of pest. Common indicators include sighting of pests, such as rodents or insects, droppings, gnaw marks, unusual odors, sounds of scurrying or scratching, damaged property or food packaging, and nests or burrows. If you suspect a pest problem but are unsure, our team can conduct a thorough inspection of your property to identify any signs of infestation and recommend appropriate treatment measures.

Yes. We operate across all towns and villages in Herefordshire and Worcestershire including Hereford, Worcester, Ross-on-Wye, Malvern, Leominster, Kidderminster, Ledbury, Evesham, and surrounding rural communities.

Yes, rats can cause: Electrical Hazards: Gnawing through wires, leading to fire risks. Structural Damage: Chewing through insulation and building materials. Contamination: Spreading diseases through droppings and urine.

Long-term strategies involve: Regular Professional Inspections: To identify and address potential issues. Ongoing Rodent-Proofing Measures: Maintaining building integrity. Employee Training: Educating staff on hygiene and waste management practices. Monitoring Systems: Utilising technologies for continuous surveillance.

You may not see the bugs themselves, but they leave behind tell-tale signs: Itchy bites, often in lines or clusters, on exposed skin like arms, neck, or face Blood spots on bedding from crushed bugs or bites Brown or black faecal stains on mattresses, bed frames, or furniture Shed skins and tiny white eggs in crevices A musty, sweet odour in severe infestations If you notice multiple signs, especially bites and stains, it's time to act fast.

Bedbugs can be difficult to get rid of, after all these insects have been around since prehistoric times so they are pretty hardy! DIY bed bug treatments rarely work so you’re always best to call in a professional pest controller like PGM & Son who have access to pest control treatments and solutions not available to the general public.

Bed bugs do not typically go away on their own. They require active treatment to eliminate them, as they can survive for months without feeding and are highly resilient.

Bed bugs can indeed hide in clothes, especially if the clothes are left on the floor or in contact with infested areas. However, they are not typically found in clothing as frequently as in bedding or furniture.

Bed bugs can survive a washing machine if the water is not hot enough. However, using a dryer on high heat can effectively kill them.

Bed bugs are small, wingless insects that feed on human blood, typically at night. Adults are oval-shaped, reddish-brown, and about 4–5mm long — roughly the size of an apple seed. After feeding, they become swollen and darker, sometimes turning red or purple. Juveniles (nymphs) are pale and translucent, while eggs are tiny and white. They do not fly or jump, but crawl quickly and hide expertly in cracks and seams.

Bed bugs are masters of concealment, preferring dark, tight spaces near sleeping areas: Mattress seams, box springs, and bed frames Headboards, nightstands, and upholstered furniture Behind wallpaper, inside electrical sockets, and under carpets Cracks in walls, baseboards, and floorboards Even inside screw heads or behind picture frames They’re drawn to body heat and carbon dioxide, so anywhere near where people sleep.

Yes — they’re expert hitchhikers. Bed bugs can hide in clothing, especially if left in piles or stored near infested areas They often travel in luggage, making hotels and public transport common sources of spread Second-hand furniture is a major risk — especially sofas, mattresses, and drawers While they don’t live in clothes long-term, they can crawl in and spread between locations Hot washing and drying clothes after travel or suspected exposure is essential.

Bed bugs often bite multiple times in a row as they move across the skin — known as the “breakfast, lunch, and dinner” pattern. Bites typically appear in straight lines or tight clusters They target exposed skin during sleep, like arms, neck, and face The pattern results from repeated feeding attempts or multiple bugs feeding at once Reactions vary — some people show red, itchy welts, while others may not react at all

Cleanliness helps with early detection, but it doesn’t guarantee prevention. Bed bugs are not attracted to dirt, but to body heat, carbon dioxide, and blood. They can infest even spotless homes, hotels, and public transport. However, regular vacuuming, decluttering, and hot washing bedding can help you spot signs early and reduce hiding places. Use mattress encasements and inspect sleeping areas routinely. So while cleaning won’t stop them from arriving, it makes it harder for them to settle unnoticed.

Bed bugs are expert hitchhikers, especially from hotels and public transport. To avoid bringing them home: Inspect hotel beds and furniture before unpacking — check seams, headboards, and drawers. Keep luggage off the bed and floor — use a metal rack or place it in the bathroom. Use sealable bags or luggage liners to protect clothes. Store dirty laundry in sealed bags — bed bugs are drawn to worn clothing. Wash and dry all clothes on high heat immediately after returning home. Vacuum and inspect your suitcase, especially around zips and seams. These steps dramatically reduce the risk of an unwanted souvenir infestation.

Yes — they can spread well beyond the bed, especially if left untreated. They’re called bed bugs, but they’re far from bed-exclusive. Bed bugs hide in furniture, clothing, luggage, carpets, curtains, and even electrical sockets. They prefer tight, dark spaces near sleeping areas, but can spread to adjacent rooms and floors. In multi-unit buildings, they can travel between flats via walls, pipes, and shared spaces.

Absolutely — and it’s one of the most common sources of infestations in the UK. Bed bugs can hide in sofas, chairs, bed frames, wardrobes, and drawers, especially in cracks, seams, and joints. Signs include dark spots, shed skins, musty odours, and tiny white eggs. Always inspect second-hand furniture thoroughly before bringing it indoors. Use a torch, magnifying glass, and gloves to check seams, undersides, and crevices. If in doubt, quarantine the item or treat it with heat before use. Vintage charm is great — but bed bug-free peace of mind is better.

Pets can be bitten, but they’re not preferred hosts. Bed bugs are drawn to human warmth and carbon dioxide, not fur. They don’t live on pets like fleas or ticks — they prefer hiding in furniture, bedding, and cracks. In severe infestations, pets may be bitten, causing itching or skin irritation, but this is rare. Pets can unknowingly transport bed bugs between rooms or properties if bugs cling to fur or bedding. Always inspect pet bedding, wash it on high heat, and monitor for signs like bites or restlessness.

Heat is one of the most effective non-chemical treatments. Bed bugs die at 45–48°C (113–118°F) if exposed for 90 minutes. At 49–60°C (120–140°F), they die in 20–30 minutes, including eggs. Washing clothes at 60°C and tumble drying for 30+ minutes is highly effective. Professional heat treatments raise room temperatures to 50–60°C, ensuring deep penetration into furniture and walls.

DIY methods can help early, but professional help is often needed. You can wash and dry bedding/clothing at high heat, vacuum thoroughly, and declutter sleeping areas. Use steam cleaners on mattresses and furniture — but ensure steam reaches at least 60°C. DIY is unlikely to eliminate larger infestations, especially if bugs are in walls or hard-to-reach places. Chemical resistance and hidden eggs make full eradication difficult without expert tools.

Avoid these common mistakes: Don’t use over-the-counter insecticides indiscriminately — many are ineffective and can worsen resistance. Don’t move infested items without sealing them — this spreads bed bugs. Don’t rely on foggers or sprays alone — they rarely reach deep hiding spots. Don’t ignore early signs — delay allows the infestation to grow. Don’t assume cleanliness prevents bed bugs — they infest clean and dirty homes alike.

Professiona pest controllers use heat, chemical, or combined treatments: • Heat treatment raises room temperature to 50–60°C, killing bugs and eggs in one visit. • Chemical treatments use regulated insecticides, often in multiple visits to break the life cycle. • Fumigation, but it’s rare and tightly regulated in domestic settings. • Professionals also provide monitoring traps, follow-up inspections, for peace of mind.

Look for these signs over 2–4 weeks: No new bites or skin reactions No sightings of live bugs, eggs, or shed skins No fresh faecal spots on bedding or furniture Traps remain empty and inspections show no activity If signs persist, a follow-up treatment may be needed.

Pigeons are smart and adaptable. A combination of methods—like spikes, reflective surfaces, and removing food—is almost always more effective than just one. If the infestation is severe, a licensed pest control or bird control service can install permanent netting or deterrents safely and legally.

Identify Entry Points – Check for holes or gaps and seal all but one exit. Use One-Way Squirrel Doors – Install a “one-way” exclusion flap so squirrels can leave but not return. Encourage Exit Naturally – Place bright lights and loud noise inside; squirrels prefer dark, quiet spaces. Remove Attractants – Don’t leave food or nesting material accessible. Clean Up – After they leave, sanitise droppings and nests to prevent re-infestation. Pro Tip: Avoid poisons—they’re inhumane and illegal in many areas; live traps can work but require frequent monitoring and legal compliance. Best to seek professional pest advice.

In the UK, all wild birds are protected under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, making it illegal to intentionally kill, injure, or take any wild bird, or to intentionally damage or destroy their nests or eggs . Key Legal Points: General Protection: All wild birds are protected year-round. Schedule 1 Species: Certain species, such as barn owls, receive additional protection, including stricter penalties . Licensing: In specific situations, such as preventing serious damage to crops or livestock, or for public health and safety, you may apply for a licence to control certain bird species. Legal Methods Without a Licence: You can deter birds using: Visual deterrents (e.g., reflective objects) Auditory scaring devices Physical barriers like netting or spikes Restricting access to food sources Always ensure that any deterrent methods are humane and do not harm the birds. Reporting Offenses: If you suspect illegal activity involving wild birds, report it to your local police force or a wildlife crime officer . For detailed guidance, visit the GOV.UK wild birds guidance.

Ultrasonic repellents are generally not very effective for pigeons. Here’s why: Pigeons hear mostly in the 1–4 kHz range, whereas ultrasonic devices emit sounds above 20 kHz. This means pigeons often cannot hear the ultrasonic frequencies at all. Habituation: Even if pigeons can hear certain high-frequency sounds, they often get used to them quickly and stop reacting. Variable results: Some studies show minor avoidance effects, but there’s no reliable long-term success, especially in lofts or urban areas.

Signs of birds nesting in your loft include: Noise: Chirping, peeping, or rustling sounds from rafters, especially at dawn or dusk. Droppings: Accumulation of bird droppings on floorboards or below entry points. Nesting material: Twigs, leaves, feathers, or grass in corners, insulation, or near vents. Feathers: Loose feathers scattered around the loft or entry points. Visible birds: Birds entering or leaving gaps, vents, or damaged soffits. Odour: Musty or ammonia-like smell from droppings or decaying material. Damage: Chewed insulation, wiring, or blocked vents from nesting activity. Early detection is important, as it makes humane removal easier and ensures compliance with UK wildlife protection laws.

Seal all entry points, install bird netting or spikes, keep the loft clean, and use visual or sound deterrents to discourage nesting.

To effectively deter birds from nesting or roosting on a residential property in the UK, consider these humane and legal methods: Physical Barriers Bird Spikes: Install stainless steel spikes on ledges, window sills, and roof edges to prevent birds from landing. Bird Netting: Use fine mesh netting to block access to lofts, balconies, or fruit trees, effectively keeping birds out. Visual Deterrents Reflective Discs or Tape: Hang shiny objects like CDs, foil strips, or reflective discs to create visual disturbances that birds find unsettling. Decoy Predators: Place realistic owl or hawk decoys in gardens or on rooftops to scare away smaller birds. Chemical-Free Repellents Bird Repellent Gel: Apply non-toxic gel to surfaces where birds perch; the sticky texture discourages landing. Peppermint or Citronella Oils: Spray diluted essential oils around areas where birds are unwanted; the strong scent can deter them. Maintenance & Monitoring Regular Cleaning: Remove old nests and droppings promptly to discourage re-nesting. Seal Entry Points: Inspect and seal any gaps or holes in your property to prevent birds from entering. Professional Help: If the problem persists, consult a pest control expert for tailored solutions. Using a combination of these methods is the most effective way to keep birds away while complying with UK wildlife laws

If you find a bat in your UK loft: Do not touch or harm it – bats and their roosts are fully protected. Keep your distance and close off the area if possible. Let it leave naturally at dusk. Contact a licensed bat worker for removal or roost issues (Bat Conservation Trust).

In the UK, bats and their roosts are fully protected. It is illegal to harm, disturb, or destroy them. Only licensed bat workers can remove or exclude bats, and work must avoid breeding (June–August) and hibernation seasons. Violating the law can lead to fines or imprisonment.

Varied carpet beetle larvae prefer natural fibres like wool, silk, fur, and feathers because these provide protein for growth. Synthetic fabrics (polyester, nylon, acrylic) are usually resistant to infestation. However, larvae may still crawl over or rest on synthetic items, especially if the fabric is blended with natural fibres or contaminated with food, sweat, or skin flakes. Preventing infestation involves clean storage and regular cleaning, even for synthetic items.

No, adult and larval varied carpet beetles do not bite humans or pets. Adult beetles feed on pollen and nectar outdoors, not on skin. Larvae feed on natural fibres like wool, silk, feathers, and leather. The only risk to humans is allergic reactions from larval hairs, which can cause itching, rashes, or respiratory irritation in sensitive individuals. Pets are generally not harmed directly, but their bedding or clothing could be damaged by larvae.

Signs of a varied carpet beetle infestation include: Visible adult carpet beetles or larvae Small holes or bald patches in carpets and fabrics Shed larval skins (moults) Tiny, sand-like faecal pellets Increased allergic reactions, such as itching or rashes

Adult carpet beetles can enter homes through open doors and windows, or via infested items like plants, second-hand furniture, or clothing. They are attracted to light and may be found on window sills during spring and early summer.

Effective methods include: Regular vacuuming, especially in hidden areas Washing affected textiles at high temperatures Using natural repellents like diatomaceous earth, boric acid, or essential oils such as cedarwood and lavender Applying insecticides containing deltamethrin or pyrethrin Seek professional pest control services for severe infestations

Store woolen and delicate materials in airtight containers Seal cracks and gaps around windows and doors Regularly clean and vacuum, particularly in dark, undisturbed areas Use natural deterrents like cedarwood or lavender sachets Inspect second-hand items and plants before bringing them indoors

The varied carpet beetle is a small, oval-shaped insect measuring approximately 2–4mm in length.Its body is covered with overlapping scales in a mottled pattern of black, white, and yellow, giving it a distinctive appearance.The larvae, known as "woolly bears," are tiny, brown, and bristly, and are the primary stage responsible for damage to textiles .

Varied carpet beetle larvae feed on natural fibres such as wool, silk, leather, and feathers, leading to holes and thinning in carpets, clothing, and upholstery. They can also damage stored food products and plant materials .

Eggs: Laid in hidden, undisturbed areas (carpets, clothing, upholstery). Hatch in 1–3 weeks. Larvae: The destructive stage. Feed on natural fibres for 2–12 months, depending on temperature and food availability. Larvae molt several times. Pupae: After feeding, larvae pupate in a protected area for 1–3 weeks. Adults: Live for 2–6 weeks, emerging mainly to mate and lay eggs. Adults feed on pollen outdoors and can fly indoors. Full life cycle: Typically 1 year, but in cooler UK conditions, it can stretch to 2 years.

Adults are most commonly seen from April to June, when they emerge outdoors to feed on pollen and seek mates. Indoor larval activity can occur year-round, especially in warm, undisturbed areas like lofts, wardrobes, or behind furniture. Infestations tend to peak in spring and early summer when adults enter homes.

Yes, to some extent: AI and machine learning models can identify adult beetles or larvae from images, especially clear close-ups. Tools like image recognition apps or AI chatbots can help determine the species and suggest control measures. Limitations: AI cannot detect hidden larvae inside fabrics or behind walls—it’s best combined with physical inspection and monitoring. To ensure you have identified the correct species we would advise you to seek professional insect identification services.

Cockroaches aren’t dangerous in the sense of being aggressive or harmful to humans directly, but they can pose health risks: • Health Concerns: Cockroaches are known to carry bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli, which can contaminate food and surfaces, potentially leading to stomach upsets or food poisoning. • Allergies and Asthma: Their droppings, shed skin, and saliva contain allergens that may trigger asthma symptoms or allergic reactions, particularly in children and sensitive individuals. • Hygiene Issues: As scavengers, cockroaches often travel through unsanitary areas and can spread germs wherever they go, making them a concern in kitchens and food storage areas. While they’re not dangerous in a physical sense, their presence indoors is a sign of poor hygiene and can contribute to health problems over time.

Cockroaches may seem to appear out of nowhere, but there’s usually a reason behind it. Their sudden presence often points to changes in the environment or an underlying issue indoors: • Food, Water, and Warmth: These are the three essentials cockroaches seek. If food is left out, bins aren’t sealed properly, or there’s excess moisture (like leaking pipes), cockroaches may be drawn in. • Seasonal Changes: Cold weather or heavy rain can drive outdoor cockroaches indoors in search of shelter and warmth. • Hidden Infestation: Roaches are nocturnal and excellent at hiding. A sudden sighting may indicate they’ve been breeding unnoticed and the population has grown. • Brought in Accidentally: Cockroaches or their eggs can hitch a ride in cardboard boxes, second-hand furniture, or even shopping bags. • Neighbouring Infestations: In flats or terraced housing, cockroaches can migrate from neighbouring properties through shared walls, pipes, or vents.

If you spot a cockroach, don’t panic — but do act promptly. A single sighting can be a sign of a larger issue because cockroaches rarely travel alone! • Inspect the Area: Check common hiding spots like behind the fridge, under the sink, and inside cupboards for droppings, shed skin, or egg cases. These are signs of a possible infestation. • Clean Thoroughly: Remove food debris, seal bins, and wipe down surfaces. Cockroaches are drawn to crumbs, grease, and moisture. • Set Traps or Bait Stations: These can help monitor activity and reduce numbers. If you catch more than one, it’s worth investigating further. • Seal Entry Points: Block gaps around pipes, vents, and skirting boards to prevent more from getting in. • Consider Professional Help: If you see multiple cockroaches or signs of nesting, it’s best to contact a pest control expert. Roaches are nocturnal and excellent at hiding, so daytime sightings often mean overcrowding.

Cockroaches are notoriously resilient, which can make them difficult to eliminate — but not impossible. With the right approach, even stubborn infestations can be brought under control: • Hardy Survivors: Cockroaches can live for weeks without food, squeeze into tiny gaps, and even develop resistance to certain insecticides. Their ability to hide and reproduce quickly means infestations can escalate before you notice. • DIY vs Professional Treatment: While traps and sprays may help with minor issues, more serious infestations often require professional pest control. Experts use targeted treatments and integrated pest management techniques to break the breeding cycle. • Persistence Pays Off: Success depends on consistency — cleaning thoroughly, sealing entry points, and using the right products. It’s not a one-off job; ongoing monitoring is key. • Not Impossible: Despite their reputation, cockroaches can be eradicated. With proper sanitation, effective baiting, and expert help if needed, most infestations can be resolved.

Cockroaches are masters of concealment, often hiding in places that are dark, warm, and close to food or moisture. Common hiding spots include: • Kitchens: Behind fridges, under sinks, inside cupboards, and around cookers — anywhere with crumbs, grease, or water. • Bathrooms: Under basins, behind toilets, and around pipework, where humidity and warmth make ideal conditions. • Appliances: Inside or behind electrical items like microwaves, kettles, and washing machines, especially if they’re rarely moved or cleaned. • Furniture: In cracks and crevices of sofas, cabinets, and drawers — particularly if the furniture is rarely disturbed. • Basements and Lofts: These areas tend to be quiet, dark, and damp, making them perfect for nesting. • Cardboard and Clutter: Cockroaches love cardboard boxes, paper piles, and cluttered storage areas, which offer both shelter and potential food sources. • Pipes and Wall Voids: They can travel through plumbing and hide inside wall cavities, especially in flats or terraced housing. If you spot one cockroach, it’s worth checking these areas thoroughly — they rarely live alone.

Several species of cockroach can be found in the UK include: German Cockroach (Blattella germanica) • The most widespread pest species in the UK. • Light brown with two dark stripes behind the head. • Prefers warm, humid environments like kitchens and bathrooms. • Fast breeders and often found near food and water sources. Oriental Cockroach (Blatta orientalis) • Dark brown or black with a glossy appearance. • Larger than German cockroaches, growing up to 2–3 cm. • Thrives in damp, cooler areas such as basements, drains, and boiler rooms. Brown-Banded Cockroach (Supella longipalpa) • Less common in the UK. • Small and reddish-brown with two pale bands across the body. • Prefers dry, warm areas and may hide in furniture or behind wallpaper. American Cockroach (Periplaneta americana) • Rare in the UK but occasionally found in heated buildings. • Large (up to 4 cm), reddish-brown, and capable of flight. • Typically found in commercial premises or tropical greenhouses. Native Outdoor Species • Tawny, Dusky, and Lesser Cockroaches are native to parts of southern England and Wales. • These species live outdoors and are not considered pests.

Spotting a single cockroach doesn’t necessarily mean your home is infested — but it can be a warning sign. Cockroaches are social insects and excellent at hiding, so if you see one, there’s a chance others are nearby. Here’s what to consider: • It Might Not Be Alone: Cockroaches rarely travel solo. A sighting could mean there’s a nest or breeding site hidden out of view. • Check for Signs: Look for droppings (similar to ground coffee), shed skins, egg cases, or a musty smell. These are indicators of a larger problem. • Clean and Monitor: Remove food sources, seal bins, and check common hiding spots. Setting traps can help you gauge whether more are present. • Act Promptly: Early action can prevent a minor issue from becoming a full-blown infestation. If you spot more than one or find signs of nesting, it’s best to contact a pest control professional. So while there’s no need to panic, it’s wise to take any sighting seriously and investigate further.

While it’s not immediately dangerous, sleeping in a room with a cockroach isn’t ideal — especially from a hygiene and health perspective. - Low Risk of Harm: Cockroaches rarely bite and tend to avoid humans. However, they can crawl on you while you sleep, especially if the room is quiet, dark, and has food or clutter nearby. - Health Concerns: Roaches can carry bacteria and allergens that may affect your health over time. If they’ve been crawling across bedding or surfaces, they could leave behind traces that trigger allergies or asthma. - Stress and Sleep Disruption: Knowing a cockroach is nearby can cause anxiety or sleeplessness. For some, the thought alone is enough to disturb rest. - Signs of a Bigger Issue: A cockroach in the bedroom may indicate an infestation elsewhere in the home. Bedrooms aren’t their preferred habitat, so their presence could mean they’re spreading from kitchens or bathrooms. What to Do: - Remove clutter and food sources. - Set traps or bait stations. - Inspect adjoining rooms for signs of infestation. - Consider professional pest control if sightings continue.

Cockroaches lay their eggs in warm, damp, and hidden places — often close to food and water sources. The eggs are enclosed in a protective case called an ootheca, which can contain anywhere from 20 to 50 eggs depending on the species. Common hiding spots for cockroach eggs include: • Behind kitchen appliances like fridges and cookers • Under sinks and inside bathroom cabinets • Around plumbing fixtures and pipework • In cracks, crevices, and wall voids • Inside cardboard boxes, clutter, and storage areas • Near baseboards, drains, and boiler cupboards • In damp rooms such as basements or laundry areas Some species, like the German cockroach, carry the egg case until just before hatching, while others deposit it in sheltered spots. If you find empty egg cases, it’s a sign that young cockroaches may already be active nearby.

Unlike ants or bees, most cockroach species don’t have a “queen” in the traditional sense. However, in highly social species like the German cockroach or American cockroach, the dominant reproductive female is sometimes referred to as a queen. Key features of a queen cockroach: • Larger Size: She’s typically the biggest female in the colony, with a wider abdomen to support egg production. • Egg Case (Ootheca): In species like the German cockroach, the queen carries a visible egg case at the end of her abdomen until just before hatching. • Longer Lifespan: Queens live longer than other colony members and produce hundreds of offspring. • Pheromone Control: She releases chemical signals that suppress reproduction in other females, maintaining her dominant role.

We highly recommend contacting your local pest controller for help, support and guidance when thinking about using chemicals to kill cockroaches due to the potential health risks, safety concerns, and regulations associated with pesticide use. Pest control professionals are trained in the safe application of these substances and can ensure that treatments are both effective and pose minimal risk to people, pets, and the environment. Additionally, improper use of chemicals can worsen infestations or create hazardous conditions in your home. Always seek expert advice before attempting any chemical treatments.

The lifespan of a cockroach depends on its species and environment, but most live anywhere from 6 months to 2 years under ideal conditions. Lifespans of common UK species: • German Cockroach: Around 6 to 8 months. Fast breeders, often found in warm indoor spaces. • Oriental Cockroach: Typically 6 months to 1 year. Prefers cooler, damp areas like basements and drains. • American Cockroach: Can live up to 2–3 years, though this species is less common in UK homes. Cockroaches go through three life stages: egg, nymph, and adult. The adult stage is when they’re most active and capable of reproduction. Females often live longer than males and can produce hundreds of offspring in their lifetime.

Cockroaches are omnivorous scavengers, meaning they’ll eat almost anything — and they’re not fussy. Their diet includes both plant and animal matter, and they’re drawn to homes by easy access to food and water. Common food sources include: • Human food: Bread, cereal, meat, sweets, greasy leftovers, and even beer • Kitchen waste: Crumbs, dirty dishes, food splatters, and unsealed bins • Pantry items: Sugar, flour, pasta — they’ll chew through cardboard or plastic to get inside • Non-food items: Paper, cardboard, book bindings, glue, soap, and even hair or skin flakes • Organic debris: Dead insects, decaying plant matter, and compost Cockroaches can survive for weeks without food, but they spend most of their time searching for it. Denying them access to food is one of the most effective ways to control their presence.

Yes — cockroaches are excellent climbers and can easily scale walls, furniture, and even ceilings. Their legs are equipped with tiny claws and sticky pads that allow them to grip rough surfaces like: • Plaster and brick • Wood and drywall • Textured wallpaper • Stone and tile They use these specialised feet to cling to vertical surfaces and even hang upside down. That’s why you might spot them high up on walls or darting across ceilings. Surfaces they struggle with: • Smooth glass • Polished metal • Porcelain • Marble These materials are too slick for their claws to grip, making them useful for traps or barriers.

Rarely, and usually only in extreme infestations. Bites are not venomous but may cause irritation.

Keep food sealed, bins closed, and surfaces clean. Fix leaks and reduce clutter. Prevention is key.

Yes. They can move through shared walls, plumbing, and vents — especially in blocks of flats or terraced housing, as well as social housing.

Not quite! They’re highly resistant to radiation, but individual cockroaches would still die from direct exposure. It’s more myth than fact.

Cockroaches have long antennae and a flat, oval body. Beetles tend to have harder wing cases and shorter antennae.

Deep clean all surfaces, especially food prep areas. Use disinfectant and vacuum thoroughly to remove droppings and egg cases.

Not necessarily. Even clean homes can attract cockroaches if there’s access to food, water, and shelter.

Yes, especially for children with asthma or allergies. Their droppings and shed skin can trigger respiratory issues.

Many professional treatments are pet-safe when applied correctly. Always follow product instructions or consult a pest control expert.

Commercial pest control prices vary depending on pest type, property size, and service frequency. One-off treatments can start from around £150–£250, while contract packages are usually billed monthly and tailored to your site’s risk level. Contracts often include regular inspections, monitoring, and call-outs, providing better value and compliance assurance.

Yes, we offer 24/7 emergency services. This ensures urgent infestations, such as rodents in food businesses or wasp nests in public areas, are dealt with quickly. Rapid response reduces health risks, reputational damage, and helps you stay compliant with UK hygiene and safety regulations.

In the UK, common commercial pests include rats, mice, cockroaches, flies, bed bugs, ants, and stored-product insects. Identification is done through site inspections, monitoring traps, droppings analysis, and spotting activity signs like gnaw marks, grease trails, or insect casings. Correct identification ensures the most effective and compliant treatment plan.

Commercial pest control uses safe, approved methods including insecticides, rodenticides, traps, proofing, and heat treatments. All chemicals comply with UK law and are applied by trained technicians. Treatments are risk-assessed to protect staff, customers, and food safety, with non-toxic options used wherever possible in sensitive environments like kitchens and warehouses.

The speed of results depends on the pest and level of infestation. Some issues, like wasps, can be resolved in one visit. Others, such as rodents or cockroaches, may require multiple treatments over several weeks. Contract clients benefit from ongoing monitoring, ensuring complete eradication and prevention of re-infestation.

Yes, we supply full documentation, including service reports, site plans, monitoring records, and treatment certificates. These records support HACCP compliance and demonstrate due diligence during Environmental Health or third-party food safety audits. Digital reporting systems are also available for easy access and review by managers and auditors.

PGM and Son are fully insured and accredited by bodies such as the BPCA and NPTA. Our pest technicians hold RSPH Level 2 and Level 3 qualifications in Pest Management and receive ongoing regular training. This ensures safe, legal, and effective pest control that meets UK industry standards and gives businesses confidence in service quality.

Yes, commercial pest control contracts typically include scheduled inspections, monitoring stations, preventative treatments, emergency call-outs, and detailed reporting. Plans are tailored to each site’s risks, ensuring food businesses, offices, or warehouses remain pest-free. Contracts provide cost predictability, rapid response, and the compliance documentation required for audits and legal responsibilities.

In the UK, business owners and landlords are legally required to keep premises free from pests under the Food Safety Act 1990, Health and Safety at Work Act 1974, and Prevention of Damage by Pests Act 1949. Responsibility usually rests with the business operator or property manager, depending on lease agreements.

Guarantees vary depending on pest type, treatment method, and contract terms. Preventative contracts are the best way to ensure long-term results, as they combine eradication with continuous monitoring and fast response if pests reappear.

Businesses must meet obligations under: Prevention of Damage by Pests Act 1949 Food Safety Act 1990 (especially food-related businesses) Health and Safety at Work etc. Act 1974 Control of Pesticides Regulations 1986 Environmental Protection Act 1990 These laws require effective pest control, and working with licensed professionals is part of due diligence.

Inspection frequency depends on risk level—low-risk offices may suffice with quarterly visits, while high-risk sites (food processing, hospitality) may require monthly or even weekly inspections, aligned with seasonal variations. A professional pest management contract provides early detection and rapid response.

Pest waste such as rodent droppings, pigeon guano, and insect remains carries harmful bacteria and diseases including leptospirosis, salmonella, hantavirus, and psittacosis. Professional cleaning ensures waste is safely removed, areas are disinfected, and future infestations are prevented.

Yes. We work with businesses, offices, warehouses, food premises, and public buildings to remove pest waste safely and discreetly. Our services comply with health and safety regulations and can be combined with our Commercial Pest Control contracts to protect your business long-term.

Absolutely. We specialise in loft clearance services, removing contaminated insulation, disinfecting affected areas, and installing new insulation where required. We also coordinate with licensed asbestos contractors if older materials are present.

The most common include: Rodents (rats, mice, squirrels) – droppings, urine, nesting. Birds (pigeons, gulls, starlings) – guano, feathers, nesting. Insects (cluster flies, carpet beetles, wasps) – carcasses, debris. All of these can create health hazards if not removed professionally.

We offer a 24/7 emergency service across Herefordshire and Worcestershire. In urgent cases, we can attend the same day to assess, quote, and begin cleaning.

Yes. PGM & Son are licensed waste carriers. All contaminated materials, droppings, insulation, and carcasses are removed and disposed of in accordance with UK regulations.

Costs depend on the type of pest, level of contamination, and size of the property. We provide free site surveys and quotations so you know exactly what’s involved before work begins.

Rodents can cause serious damage and health risks if left unchecked. Seal Entry Points: Check for gaps around doors, windows, and pipes, and seal them with materials like steel wool or silicone caulk. Secure Food Sources: Store food in airtight containers and ensure bins, especially outdoor ones, are sealed tightly. Natural Deterrents: Use peppermint oil or ammonia-soaked cotton balls to repel rodents in key areas. Declutter Spaces: Keep sheds, garages, and lofts tidy to eliminate hiding places. Avoid storing cardboard or paper piles for extended periods. Call Professionals: If you're facing persistent infestations, contacting a professional pest control service ensures effective and safe removal. Our pest control team provides expert rodent removal uses humane and effective methods to eliminate infestations and prevent future problems.

Common sources include rats, mice and squirrels. We would need to go in the loft to see what evidence is in there. We would also spend some time asking you about the noises you’ve heard, for example, what time of the day and whether you’ve noticed any other signs of pests such as droppings, gnaw marks and smells.

There are various ways for rats to get into a property. Rats can climb up the walls, enter through the sewer system, faulty pipes, damaged walls and next door’s property. Something as simple as leaving external doors open can invite a rodent friend in.

Yes! We deal with pretty much all pests. The most common pests we deal with are rats, wasps, mice, bedbugs, fleas, cluster flies, moles, squirrels, pigeons, woodworm, and hornets.

Rats can carry diseases such as Hantavirus, Salmonella, and other pathogens that can cause viral infections and food poisoning.

Yes, rats are capable of climbing walls, especially smooth surfaces like pipes or walls with rough textures that provide grip.

The UK is home to two main rat species: Brown Rat (Rattus norvegicus): Also known as the common, street, sewer, or wharf rat. It's widespread across Britain, commonly found in homes, gardens, and urban areas. Black Rat (Rattus rattus): Less common and primarily found in seaports, particularly around the Thames Estuary.

Signs of a rat infestation include: Droppings, especially near food sources. Gnaw marks on food packaging, furniture, or wires. Visible rat holes or burrows in gardens or under structures. Noises, such as scratching or scurrying, particularly at night. Footprints or greasy marks along walls. If you notice these signs, it's advisable to consult a pest control professional.

Rats can carry and transmit several diseases, including: Leptospirosis: Caused by bacteria found in rat urine. Salmonella: Bacteria that can contaminate food and surfaces. Hantavirus: A virus transmitted through rodent urine, droppings, or saliva. Toxoplasmosis: A parasitic disease that can affect humans. Proper hygiene and pest control measures can reduce the risk of transmission.

In the wild, rats typically live for about 1 to 2 years due to predators and environmental factors. In captivity, with proper care, they can live up to 3 years.

Rats are omnivorous and have a varied diet, including: Grains and seeds: Such as cereals. Fruits and vegetables: Including apples and carrots. Meat and fish: Occasionally scavenged. Nuts and legumes: Like peanuts and beans. In urban areas, they often scavenge human food waste. It's essential to store food securely to deter rats.

Preventive measures include: Sealing gaps and holes: In walls, doors, and windows. Installing door sweeps: And repairing damaged screens. Keeping food in sealed containers: And cleaning up crumbs promptly. Removing outdoor food sources: Like bird seed or pet food. Regular maintenance and cleanliness are key to deterring rats.

Rats are prolific breeders. A female rat can produce up to 12 litters per year, with each litter containing 6 to 12 pups. This rapid reproduction contributes to the challenges of controlling rat populations.

Rats pose significant threats to businesses, including: Health Hazards: Transmission of diseases such as leptospirosis and salmonella. Property Damage: Gnawing on electrical wires, insulation, and structural components. Reputation Damage: Customer perception issues, especially in food-related industries. Legal Implications: Potential breaches of health and safety regulations. Implementing a robust pest control program is essential to mitigate these risks.

Common indicators include: Droppings: Especially near food sources. Gnaw Marks: On packaging, furniture, or wires. Visible Rat Holes: In gardens or under structures. Noises: Such as scratching or scurrying, particularly at night. Footprints or Greasy Marks: Along walls. Early detection is crucial for effective control.

Effective strategies include: Professional Pest Control Services: Utilising trained experts with access to specialised tools and rodenticides. Rodent-Proofing: Sealing entry points and maintaining cleanliness. Monitoring Systems: Implementing technologies for real-time alerts. Regular Inspections: Conducting routine checks to identify and address potential issues promptly.

The duration varies based on infestation size and control methods. Professional treatments can yield results within days to weeks. However, ongoing monitoring and maintenance are necessary to prevent recurrence.

Yes, businesses must comply with: Health and Safety Executive (HSE) Guidelines: Ensuring a safe environment for employees and customers. Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH): Proper handling and storage of rodenticides. Environmental Protection Act: Responsible disposal of waste to prevent attracting pests. Non-compliance can lead to legal consequences and reputational damage.

Preventive measures include: Sealing Gaps and Holes: In walls, doors, and windows. Installing Door Sweeps: And repairing damaged screens. Proper Waste Management: Using sealed bins and regular disposal. Regular Maintenance: Ensuring the building's integrity to deter entry.

Immediate actions include: Contacting a Professional Pest Control Service: For assessment and treatment. Isolating Affected Areas: To prevent spread. Notifying Relevant Authorities: Required by regulations. Implementing Corrective Measures: Based on expert recommendations.

Yes, innovative solutions include: Bait Systems: Intelligent bait stations that control rodenticide access and monitor activity. Monitoring: Real-time monitoring and alerts for rodent activity.

Clothes moths are not dangerous to human health, but their larvae can cause significant damage to natural-fibre clothing, carpets, and textiles if infestations are left unchecked.

The two most commonly encountered species are the common (webbing) clothes moth (Tineola bisselliella) and the case-bearing clothes moth (Tinea pellionella).

It is the larvae, not the adult moths, that feed on natural fibres such as wool, silk, upholstery, carpets, and fur.

Signs include: Small irregular holes or threadbare patches in fabrics. Silky webbing or larval cases attached to fibers. Frass (tiny granular droppings) near damaged areas.

They may be introduced via second-hand or gifted clothing, or through textiles already stored in your home. Clothes moths favour dark, undisturbed, and warm spaces such as wardrobe corners or drawers.

They prefer natural fibres, especially those containing keratin, such as wool, silk, fur, feathers, and felt. They may also attack synthetics blended with wool, especially if stained with sweat or food residues.

Vacuum regularly, especially hidden areas. Clean clothes before storing, especially removing sweat or food stains. Store vulnerable items in airtight or vacuum-sealed containers. Use natural repellents like cedar blocks, lavender sachets, or essential oils (though best used alongside good hygiene). Pheromone traps can assist in monitoring and reducing male moth populations but do not fully eliminate infestations.

Launder or wash clothing in hot water, or freeze them for a couple of weeks to kill eggs and larvae. Vacuum thoroughly, and dispose of vacuum bags outside immediately. Consider professional pest control, such as ULV fogs, heat treatments, or gas anoxia methods depending on the extent of infestation.

If you discover a wasp nest, avoid disturbing it, as this can lead to aggressive behaviour and stings. A trained pest control specialist can safely remove nests from homes and businesses ensuring your safety.

Wasp nests are often papery and bulbous, resembling a balloon. They can be gray or brown and feature intricate patterns. The size varies from small to large, depending on the species.

Removing a wasp nest requires caution. It's advisable to contact a pest control professional, especially if the nest is active. If it's inactive, it might be safe to leave it as a deterrent, but ensure there are no signs of activity.

Typically, wasps do not reuse old nests. At the end of the season, most of the colony dies, and a new queen will establish a new nest elsewhere. However, if a nest remains undisturbed, it might attract other insects or pests.

While all wasps can sting, some species are more aggressive than others. Hornets are generally more aggressive, while paper wasps tend to be less so unless provoked.

Wasps typically have slender bodies, narrow "wasp waists," and bold black-and-yellow bands—unlike bees, which are generally hairier and rounder. Hornets are a specific group of larger and often more aggressive wasps, sometimes with black-and-white markings (e.g., the European hornet), and capable of more painful stings.

Wasp numbers peak in late summer when the nest population is largest. Workers become more active, especially seeking sugary food, increasing human encounters.

Yes, wasps are beneficial: they prey on pests like flies, caterpillars, and aphids, and play a role in pollination. However, they can pose threats when nesting close to humans, especially because they can sting multiple times and may provoke aggressive behavior near nests.

The UK hosts around 9,000 species of wasp, but only a handful form large social nests. The most common social species include the common (yellowjacket) wasp and the German wasp, while solitary species also exist and have varied behaviors and nesting styles.

Instead of swatting—which can release alarm pheromones and trigger more wasps. Staying calm, opening windows or doors to let the wasp out.

Call a pest professional if a nest is large, hard to safely reach, located indoors (e.g. in lofts or wall cavities), or if household members are allergic.